The library

The six families

All tea is the leaf of one plant, Camellia sinensis. What makes a white, a green or a black is what happens to the leaf after it is picked.

White

Withered and dried, nothing more.

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 85°C, 4:00

Green

Heated soon after picking (pan-fired in China, steamed in Japan) so it never oxidises.

In a teapot 2.5 g to 300 ml at 75°C, 2:00

Yellow

Made as a green, then wrapped while warm to yellow gently ("sealed yellowing").

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 80°C, 3:00

Oolong

Bruised and partly oxidised, anywhere from a green-leaning tenth to most of the way, often roasted.

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 90°C, 3:00

Black

Rolled and oxidised fully. China calls it red tea, after the cup.

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 98°C, 3:30

Dark

Fermented by microbes after it is made, and often pressed: pu-erh is the best known.

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 98°C, 3:00

Tisane

Strictly not tea (no leaf of Camellia sinensis), and quite welcome all the same.

In a teapot 3 g to 300 ml at 100°C, 5:00

How the leaf is made

  1. Wither The leaf is spread out to wilt and soften, losing water.
  2. Fix Heat (a pan or steam) stops the leaf browning: at once for a green, after it has browned a little for an oolong.
  3. Bruise or roll Breaking the leaf’s cells lets air in and shapes it.
  4. Oxidise The broken leaf browns, as a cut apple does: a little for oolong, all the way for black.
  5. Yellow Wrapped warm for hours, the leaf yellows and mellows.
  6. Pile or age Microbes go to work, quickly in a damp heap or slowly over years.
  7. Dry Every tea ends here, sometimes with a roast for oolong.

Dots, left to right: white, green, yellow, oolong, black, dark.

What the letters mean The glossary

If you are cold, tea will warm you; if you are too heated, it will cool you; if you are depressed, it will cheer you; if you are excited, it will calm you.

Attributed to W. E. Gladstone

himinbjörg the tea caddy